Folkdräktsbilder
från Skåne.
In English
below Kvinnodräkt från Ingelstads Härad i Skåne, de tre första bilderna. Kluten
från Ingelstad är ett exempel på en av de allra största klutarna i Skåne. I
Ingelstad har den knypplade spetsar medan den i Järrestad dekorerades med
engelskt broderi. Järrestads härad ansågs genom sin sjöfart och fiskeläge
ha råd med det. Det lite fattigare bondfolket inne i landet fick tillverka sina
spetsar själva. Som i så många andra exempel anses den på fri hand knypplade
spetsen finare än Vadstenas efter mönster knypplade spets. I dag är det svårt att få tag i det dräktsilver som behövs. Det säljs
inte vid auktioner längre. Från Ingelstads härad skriver Bruzelius: "En
högst owanlig bröllopssed bestod deri att brudgummen efter bröllopsmiddagen afklippte
brudens långa hår, och, då den unga paret lagt sig, fäste mannen i gästernas
närwaro på hennes hufwud den så kallade kluten, den gifta kvinnans
hufwudbonad, med hwilken hon borde sofwa bröllopsnatten."
Under folkdräktstiden (fram till omkring 1850) ansågs det som en stor skam
om en gift kvinna visade håret. Däremot kunde hon medverka i skörden iklädd
endast huvudbonad, kort överdel (blus) och särk. Och om sommarens vindar är
nyckfulla och som andra underkläder inte förekom, kunde det skymta sådant som
vi idag anser omoraliskt. Men den skördeklädda allmogekvinnan var högst anständig.
Hon visade inte håret! Det var ju bara håret den gifta kvinnan inte fick visa.
Den unga flickans stora stolthet och prydnad för att locka friare var
följaktligen ett långt hår flätat eller lindat med vackra band eller annan
hårutsmyckning.
Sen
kommer 2 bilder jag hittat i antikvariat med gamla bilder från Ingelstad. Sist
en teckning av en gentleman i dräkt av en typ som hör hemma i 1600-talets
första del. Den bars vid tex nattvardsgång och böndagar ända fram till
omkring 1850, alltså ända tills Skånes bönder i stort sett slutade använda
det vi kallar folkdräkt. Modellen är sen den tid då Skånes bönder
tillhörde Danmark och tjänade mycket silver på handel med Hansan och
Tyskland. Sen hade den Skånske bonden otur och blev svensk. Resultatet blev att
de Skånska bönnderna inte längre hade råd att följa det europeiska modet.
Sina högtidsplagg från den rika tiden behöll de. Övriga dräkter, för
enklare högtider och vardag nöttes ut och de nya plagen tillverkades enligt
den långsamt förändrade stil som skedde även inom de konservativa
bondesamhällena.
Först det som kallas 'Skördedräkt' i 3 bilder, sen tre bilder till från
Herrestad, inköpta på antikvariat.
Först från Järrestads
Härad i Skåne. Sen Färs Härad, Göinge.
Fyra bilder från Torna
Härad Skåne. Den sista med unik sorgdräkt.
Från vänster: Ljunits Härad, Onsjö, och Vilands Vemmenhögs Härad i
Skåne.
Samtliga teckningar; Gunn 'Cornelia' Johansson. Gamla färgbilder inköpta på
olika antikvariat.
Från Skåne finns 21 dokumenterade (alla delar i dräkten
finns bevarade) kvinnodräkter och en rekonstruerad (bara någon del av dräkten
bevarad, resten nyskapat eller utformat efter omgivande dräkter eller
skriftliga beskrivningar) kvinnodräkt. Det finns 16 dokumenterade mansdräkter
och 5 rekonstruerade mansdräkter.
Landskapet Skåne har dräkter från Albo, Bjäre, Gärds, Ingelstad, Järrestad, Villand, Västra
Göinge, Åsbo, Östra Göinge, Bara, Frosta, Färs, Harjager, Herrestad
ljunits, Luggude, Onsjö, Oxie, Rönneberg, Skytts, Torna eller Vemmenhög i Skåne.
From the point of view of costumes Skåne is one of the richest provinces in
Sweden. Here are also found several of the country's oldest costumes, explained
by the occurrence of certain economic and political events at the right
junctures so that they were decisive in retarding the development in the
province. Costumes were "frozen" for a long period of time.
Until 1658 Skåne was a part of Denmark. Skåne, once a leading province of
Denmark became a distant outlying province of Sweden. The general economic
prosperity in Europe, increased the prices of agricultural products, and greatly
benefited the fertile Skåne region. Prosperity generally brings with it a
heightened fashion-consciousness.The peasantry quickly adopted features from the
early l600s, which meant that renaissance and baroque styles dominated. The
manner of dress prevailed into the l9th century, at which time a new economic
upswing brought new features to the costumes, consisting mainly of decorative,
luxury items.However, the traditional costume kept many of its oldest features
as long as the peasantry of Skåne retained a true folk costume. Jackets with
shoulder wings and wide knee breeches were still being worn some 250 years after
their arrival on the scene. Women's costumes retained many features even longer.
This is the case with the joined bodices and skirts with their very short bodice
sections, which have medieval origins, and also with the "klut", a
coverchief which is such a typical head-dress in Skåne. The elaborate silver
ornaments also preserved medieval forms. Sigfrid Svensson, in his detailed
analysis, established the fact that the different costumes of the province canot
be asociated with parishes or districts. If there were, at one time, strictly
local variations, knowledge about them has long been lost. Records from parish
meetings, in the l800s, reveal that conformity with adjoining parishes was often
encouraged. Generally speaking, using preserved examples, only four costume
areas can be distinguished: northeast, northwest, southeast and southwest. The
district of Färs is the point of intersection. The oldest features are
generally to be found in the south, while newer features, coming from outside
the province, were more quickly adopted in the northwest. When today's costumes
were being reconstructed the rich variety of the preserved material lent
themselves to adaptation so that each of the 23 districts now have their own
costume. Costumes for the same district can vary as the old,original material
itself is richly varies. This conforms to the practice of olden times. Most of
the bodices worn today fasten with lacing rings and chains, mostly as it was in
the past. Old inventories reveal, however, that hooked bodices were also fairly
common. Rings, however, were considered to be more stylish and have therefore
been better preserved. Black stockings are generally worn with the women's
costume. Black was prevalent in southern Skåne as far back as the early 1600s
while blue stockings were often used inthe north. Black stockings are almost
unknown in the rest of Sweden when it comes to old folk costumes, while in
Denmark they have been common. Many museums in Skåne have exceptional
collections opf old costumes from Skåne, but the most comprehensive collection,
and the most completely exhibited, is to be found at Kulturen in Lund.
SKÅNE: Local information:
VILLAND: The men's costume consists of yellow knee breeches with tassels, a
blue single-breasted vest of homespun, a black jacket with hooks, a linen shirt
with fine white embroidery, high leather boots and white stockings.
The hat is of an old style, with a round crown and a relatively broad brim,
which is common in Skåne. The most known women's costume is that used for a
formal festive occasion. It is notable forits silver ornamentation: locket-chain,
medieval cross with bangles, and silver embellished belt. The costume has an
attached bodice and skirt with open bodice with ornamental facing rings, red
woolen skirt with a black velvet band near the bottom, an old style blouse <opplöten),
an old style stomacher, covering the bodice opening, a white apron with
interwoven pattern, and an old style coverchief with fine white embroidery. The
black jacket has a black velvet trimming and two ornamental clasps. This "tail-jacket"
is very typical for the Villand district, with an exaggerated basque in the back
extended by means of an inserted paper filling. The two described costumes are
based on old garments in the Kristianstad Museum and Kulturen in Lund.
GÄRDS:The women's festive wear is simple.The costume has a skirt, bodice and
jacket of dark-blue homespun trimmed in blue silk and black velvet. the bodice,
which hooks together, is also edged in red. The apron is of striped red and blue
cotton. Checkered cotton, in red and blue, is used for the head covering. The
men's costume usually has white linen trousers and a shirt with a finely
embroidered collar. The vest is double+breasted with lapels and is sewn of
horizonitslly striped cotton woven in rosepath technique. The back is of coarse
linen with lacing for adjustable width. The jacket is of black homespun with
high collar and horn buttons. Long white linen trousers have had widespread use
in Skåne both as everyday and formal wear.
ALBO:The Stenestad local museum has preserved an old women's garment that has
a joined dark-blue and a bodice of silk brocade with moleskin colored velvet
trimming. The blouse is open-sleeved. The cotton apron is striped. In the old
days the woman wore a red band in her hair if she were unmarried, following the
costom of the unwedded going without a head covering. The men's costume has
yellow knee breeches, white stockings, blue or striped single breasted vest, and
a blue-black homespun jacket, which can be shortened for modern taste.
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